Sometimes you get the Bear

....but this time, we got the hare.

Even though no bears were spotted today, we took chances and got lucky every time.

Yesterday evening, we were exhausted. I was glad to hear that today's ride would be short (Lake Louise to Banff, about 40 miles). Last night, I did not think I would want to add any distance to that.

But this morning, I had new found energy! I was willing to consider the optional sidetrips, and one in particular was sorely tempting me.

First, we decided that seeing Lake Louise was a must, despite hearing that there was a steep 4K climb to get there. After all, how could we say we had been to Lake Louise without even seeing the lake?

By the way, the "town" of Lake Louise can hardly even be described as a town---it's a tiny mall.






All the more reason to make sure we saw the actual lake.

We met Jim and Dave at the lake and I really wanted to get a photo of them by the water. (Here they are, but obviously not the posed photo.)

Unfortunately, they had already had a stranger take their picture, but Dave took a snapshot of Dean and I.



The backdrop is so outrageously beautiful that it really doesn't seem real.






I had to take a photo of this cute family posing by the lake. I think it's a better picture that the one of Dean and I!










The Chateau was not that impressive; glad we didn't try to get to the "high tea" yesterday.


So once we had already made the climb up to the lake, it really wasn't hard to add on another 10K for the sidetrip that caught my attention. According to Bud, if we would follow an abandoned highway for a few miles, we would once again see the Continental Divide. I did ask a lot of questions before persuading Dean to make the trip. "How far is it? How hilly? Is the road paved?" We could not tempt anyone else in the group to come with us, so after our visit to the chateau, we set off.


We took the old Highway 1.




















Now, it is blocked off for cars and is in disrepair, but you can still hike or bike (or cross country ski, in the winter) on it. It had a lot of bumps and holes, so we went slowly. The road seemed to be mostly downhill, which was worrisome, since we anticipated climbing back up.

We saw the hare.

We got to 4 1/2 miles and thought we must have missed it. There was a steep downhill. What the hell---we've come this far, can't turn back now.

Wheeee! We got to the bottom of the hill and there were these huge arches!

This used to be a regular tourist stop ("stop of interest", as they are called in Canada), complete with paths, benches, signs, restrooms, and a picnic area. There was not another soul to be found. I guess it is now a "ghost stop of interest".

We read everything.

We took photos of each other at the spot where the waters divide.































And then we found a map on one of the display boards. It showed that if we simply continued a mile or so down the deserted road, we would get to a spot where we could connect to the new Highway 1 and head back to the town of Lake Louise. We guessed that it would be an easy ride back into town. It seemed worth a try, rather than making our way back uphill on the old road.

We headed back to British Columbia (and PST) and gained an hour. This is the end of the old highway.

In about 15 minutes, we lost the hour again.

The main highway was busy, but it was a short, mostly downhill ride back to town. In this photo, taken from the main road, you can see the old road across a lake.

Total mileage for our sidetrip: 18 miles. We had a blast. Cappuccino and food in the cafe, then we set off for our regular ride for the day.

Lake Louise (the town) 7-22-09

The idea of High Tea at the Chateau on Lake Louise sounded lovely. Therefore, I suggested to Dean that we hit the road early and try to make good time in order to get to Lake Louise early.


But alas, even though we tried our best, we did not arrive at camp till 4:15. And the night before, we had camped at the "primitive" Columbia Icefields, with pit toilets and just a faucet for water. Therefore, showers were the top priority for everyone.

Then, there was the tent fiasco. Barb and Dean had just erected their tents when Ranger Dude came over and insisted they be moved. What is it with Canadian campgrounds? The rule seems to be that tents must be pitched on the hardest, rockiest spot available. We were told that even though the soft dirt had nothing growing on it, we were not allowed to sleep on it because maybe someday plants might choose to grow there. Finally, I have found something in which the US is superior to Canada. At least back home, one is allowed to camp on the best spot available at any campsite.

So now, it is 5:15. We do not know what the time frame is for the "High Tea", but we have heard its 3K to get to the Chateau, and dinner here is served at 6:00. And Bud is making fettucini alfredo.

Instead, after dinner, we will head to the village and look around and have a beer.

I didn't really like rushing today. We had a goal in mind, so it seemed like a good idea, but it didn't work out, so now the rushing seems pointless.

I have noticed that this group has an atmosphere of nervous energy regarding the biking. It was evident the first day, but I thought it would pass. But no, every day, people are rushing to get out of camp, rushing to stay ahead of others. Probably each person has his or her own reasons: What if I am last? What if I get left behind? What if my riding buddies won't wait for me? What if I have bike trouble and there is nobody to help? What if? What if?

Two guys in the group seem quite self-confident, and are not influenced by the group atmosphere. Each definitely marches to his own tune.




Karl

















and Phil










are each very strong cyclists. If they wanted to, they could arrive with the first group every day. But they don't. They leave camp when they feel like it, go off the route whenever they want to, stop and relax when the mood hits them, and so forth. It is also obvious that each of them also truly loves to ride his bicycle.

After we arrive at camp (and on rest days) most people in this group do not touch their bicycle again till the next riding day. They will walk or take a taxi, even when they are traveling an easy distance by bike. But Karl and Phil are rarely far from their bikes, and both often add extra kilometers.

I have learned my lesson today....no more rushing! It's a vacation!

Random Songs

Generally, most time on the bike is spent without conversation, since it's rare to be able to ride side by side. So it's a great opportunity for thinking as you ride and I enjoy the chance to reflect as I cycle by such beautiful scenery.

But the other thing that happens to me is that random songs get stuck in my head and play over and over. Like, I'll see a Chevrolet and then its "Bye, bye Miss American Pie".

Or when we rode by a sign for Blue River, I found "Moon River" running through my head.
Other times, it's "This is the worst trip, I've ever been on" (even though that isn't true).

But on this trip, I somehow remembered a song from my Catholic childhood and I cannot shake it from my personal soundtrack:

"It's a looooong road to freedom
A winding steep and high.
But when you walk in love
With the wind on your wing.
And cover the earth
With the songs you sing,
The Miles Fly By!"It could be worse. At least I'm not hearing Michael Jackson songs anymore.

Headwinds, Horseflies, and Hills--7-21-09 (66 miles)

Okay, the hills were not a surprise. We knew we would gain 1000 meters in elevation between Jasper and the Columbia Icefields. But the headwinds were an ugly surprise, starting about Mile 40. And the horseflies were nasty. I killed a few along the way, but too many survived.




Now, we are battling mosquitoes in our campsite. They are landing on me (despite the insect repellent) as I write. Dean built a campfire with the leftover firewood here at our campsite, and Ted and Karl came over and enjoyed it with us.





Today's ride was perhaps the hardest to date, but also very beautiful.

We stopped at Athabasca Falls early in the day.
Video of waterfall



There was a sign warning us not to do anything stupid




and a park bench erected in memorial for somebody who did.




Some men from India saw us and asked if they could take a photo of us. I got them to take a picture with my camera as well. I guess we are going in their photo album along with the shots of wildlife they see.(from left, standing: Dean, Clement, Susan, Karl, Ted, seated: Barbara and Barb.






When I heard that we were going to camp tonight at the "icefields", I was not particularly enthusiastic. Who wants to sleep on ice?











Fortunately, we are not actually sleeping on or next to them; we can see them on the mountains from camp.

Mike led us on a "short walk" after dinner.

It actually took us about an hour and a half total, but the views were pretty spectacular.



This is a view of the Ice Center. You can also see the road we cycled in on.
Tomorrow, we head for Lake Louise, then Banff. I am pretty excited about what's ahead.

Traveling Companions

Our trip consists of 20 bicyclists and two staff: Bud (the owner of Cycle Canada) and his trusty helper, Jason.

Bud is conscientious, organized, thorough, and unflappable. However, we are all grateful that he hired Jason because Jason is cheerful, personable, and has social skills.

Of the bicyclists in the group, there are more men than women (14-6). Most people on the trip are middle-aged (40's and 50's). A few are in their 60's and one amazing woman, Barbara, is 74. Here she is, clowning around while wearing Barb's arm warmers.


Mark is 27
(do you see a resemblance to a movie star? no Dean, not Woody Allen) and the youngest rider in the group.

Surprisingly, the majority of people on the trip are married and traveling without their spouses. Barbara plus 10 of the men on the trip left partners at home.

There are 2 married couples on the trip, Dean and I



and Vince and Lynda.

Most people on the trip are camping every night, but 4 people are paying extra for the "hotel option", Vince and Lynda, Dave and Jim.

A few words about Dave and Jim. When they showed up in Fort Langley at the start of the trip, fresh from their night at a local B&B, many of us assumed they were a couple. They look like a couple (notice their matching shirts in this photo).

But a few days into the trip, we realized that they are actually in separate rooms, and that Jim is married and Dave twice divorced. We then decided that they are not really gay after all. Unless they are, in a sort of Brokeback Mountain sort of way: "Honey! Time for my annual bicycle trip with Dave."

Most of the people in the trip are Canadians. Exceptions: me and Dean (from Oakland CA),

Clement (practically our neighbor, from San Jose)



Phil (from Bellingham, WA), who actually rides with a British Columbia bicycling club

Barb, who lives in Wenatchee, WA. Except that Barb is really a Canadian who just lives in the U.S.

Here is Barb with some sort of random Biker Dude, at our lunch stop in Lower Nicola.








and Karl, from Cologne, Germany.

Barbara lives in Kingston, Ontario, but she was born in East Germany and managed to get out when she was 18. Barbara is friendly, extroverted, and talkative. She is also really glad to have Karl on the trip to speak German with.

Barbara and Karl

22 is a hard number for group cohesion. Of course, it's easier than even larger groups, but I am used to traveling in bike groups of 10 people. When you have double that number, it is hard to keep track of everybody. I have noticed that our group tends to naturally split into 2 fairly easily.


Here we are at dinner at the Columbia Icefields, divided nicely into 2 groups to fit at the 2 tables.








I tend to hang with Dean (of course),

Vince and Lynda,

and the 2 Barbs.



The 3 cops (did I mention that there are 3 police officers on the trip? George and Paul are from Ottawa, (half of Pat, Paul, Jane, George)

while Mark is a Royal Canadian Mounted Police --RCMP)


They hang out a lot with the 2 Victoria girls (Pat and Jane), while the rest of the men on the trip go with one group or the other.Pat, Jane, Paul

We do a pretty good job of mixing it up, too. For example, one guy I would never meet on the road is Mike, because he rides with the "Fast Five" every morning.



But he and I have discovered our mutual love of adventure books. I was so excited to meet somebody else who loves THE WORST JOURNEY IN THE WORLD, and Mike and I have talked a lot about our favorite books.

When you go on a trip like this, you are thrown together with a group of strangers. The one thing you all have in common is a love of bicycling. By the end, if you're lucky, you have a group of new friends. If there were people you don't like, you never have to see them again anyway.